Visiting Napoli

[Yuri]

- That was my second visit to Italy. The first time I spent 5 days in Rome back in Dec 2018. This time I went straight to Naples and only yhe least day I went to Rome;

- Italian HSR is perfect. Incredibly high frequency (up to every 15 min at peak times) and covers the 200 km between Rome and Naples in 1:10. It peaked at 300km/h at one point. We are so behind here in Americas;

- I stayed in Chiaia, the upmarket neighbour just west of Centro Storico. Speaking of hotels, they're surprisingly rare there. Apparently people stay in B&B and AirBnBs. Those are not for me;

- I didn't find Naples neither chaotic nor poor as people often describe. It feels like any big European city with high streets full of people. Very few immigrants but there were a high number of European tourists: French, Spanish, German, British and many Italians from other regions. Not overwhelming as Rome, Florence or Venice as they don't walk in big packs and are more normal. Napolitan people are quite diverse in terms of appearance;

- Naples is dense. So many narrow streets packed with people and activity. Unlike other Italian cities that were overrun by mass tourism, Naples is a city for their inhabitants. Walking around in the Quartieri Spagnoli, you see the laundry hanging out, people speaking from inside their homes. It's a real city;

- The layering of history there is mesmerizing. First, it's historical part is massive. I guess only maybe Paris have such continuous extension of historical buildings. Also, the Greek origins, Roman remains, medieval streets, Baroque churches, Bourbon architecture, all pilling up together. The city visually shouldn’t work, but somehow it absolutely does;

- Pompeii. I decided to go there as an "obligation", a check list of a visit to the Naples alrea. My mistake: it's mind blowing. What shocked me how massive it is and realizing how sophisticated ordinary Roman urban life already was 2,000 years ago. Streets, apartment blocks, shops, infrastructure, public spaces a city that would be recognizable today;

- Speaking of Pompeii, Vesuvius: it completely dominates the atmosphere of the city. You see it constantly in the background, even before arriving from the windows of the train. It gives Naples this strange dramatic feeling all the time, especially near the waterfront;

- Food is incredible. Simple and extremely well executed. It's an art. As it happens everywhere in Italy, you only find local, regional food. Roman food there is as available as Vietnamese or so;

- Naples became much more enjoyable once I stopped trying to optimize the trip. Less photos, less pressure to “see everything”, more just walking around and absorbing the atmosphere;

- Gay life in Naples, as in Rome, is minuscule, although pleasant;

- Spent my last day in Rome. After days in Naples, it was bizarre seeing a city completely taken by tourism. After getting used and give up taking pics, I managed to remember why I find Rome the most beautiful city I’ve ever visited. Unmatched in terms of overall urban harmony and accumulated civilization.