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CityBoyDoug Dec 5, 2015 2:48 AM


Originally Posted by Those Who Squirm (Post 7258597)
In El Monte, where it has replaced the old round one in the photo above. It does look rather interesting from the pictures I've seen, though those have mostly been limited to wide exteriors and bus bay close-ups. It's basically the eastern end of the Busway, though it also serves Greyhound and other carriers in addition to Metro.


(This is only a pre-construction rendering, but it's better than anything I can find of the finished structure, which is pretty close to it, anyway. And, not that I look at that tiny bus next to it, it's obviously bigger than I thought.

Thanks TWS for posting.

What a horrible people unfriendly design! Could it be any less of a shelter from sun or rain? Are roofing materials in short supply? Simply dreadful in the extreme!

Was this ''shelter'' designed to allow the maximum amount of blazing sun and pouring rain to fall on people?
:(:(:( :previous:

Flyingwedge Dec 5, 2015 5:24 AM

The 23rd President visits Los Angeles

Originally Posted by tovangar2 (Post 7228053)

"When the Board of Education sold this lot [2nd and Spring, site of School No.1], it bought
another, which extended from Fort Street to Spring between
Fifth and Sixth streets and had a frontage of one hundred
and twenty feet on each street."

"Sixty Years in Southern California" (1916) Harris Newmark

The Spring Street School, built 1884 on never-before-built land:
seaver center (n.d.)

The photo below is identified as Los Angeles High School on Ft. Moore Hill, but it is clearly
the 1884 Spring Street School*. There are four horses pulling a carriage, with lots of people
in the street and on the sidewalk. The photo is dated April 22, 1891:

UCLA/Islandora/Seeing Sunset

*However, for a time the 1884 Spring Street School building was used as Los Angeles High School.

So, what happened in Los Angeles that day?

Los Angeles Times,
April 23, 1891@ ProQuest via LAPL

Here's a closeup of the carriage. I bet the guy in the top hat is Harrison.

Benjamin Harrison was the second President to visit Los Angeles. The first was Hayes, in 1880.

sadykadie2 Dec 5, 2015 6:36 AM


Originally Posted by HossC (Post 7258527)
This is the Warner-Elektra-Atlantic (WEA) office building in Burbank. It's Julius Shulman's "Job 6109: Hugh Gibbs and Don Gibbs, Warner-Elektra-Atlantic Corporation (Los Angeles County, Calif.),1982".
NB. I've omitted some of the exterior photos and all of the black & white ones.

The sign at the reception desk names it as the Joel M Friedman Building (see below). I'm not sure who thought that white lettering on an off-white background was a good idea!

Some more interior shots.

All from Getty Research Institute

The clipping below is from the Oct 17, 1981 edition of Billboard. It gives some information about what the building was used for, and who Joel M Friedman was.

A week later, Oct 24 1981, Billboard published this article about Joel M Friedman, or "JMF" as he was obviously known. I tried adjusting the contrast on this one, but kept losing the lower-left corner.

Now a Warner Bros office building, it still stands at 111 N Hollywood Way. That's the corner of W Olive Avenue, opposite Warner Bros' Studios. From
"...the Gibbs & Gibbs-designed Warner Bros. office building on North Hollywood Way is a deconstructed residential building expanded into a commercial high-rise.

Completed in 1981, this office building has a wood post-and-beam structural system like the classic Mid-Century Modern homes built by USC School of Architecture-trained architects like Carl Maston, Raymond Kappe, Ladd & Kelsey, and Buff & Hensman. The wood structural members are exaggerated, extending far beyond the building's dark-tinted glass walls, and feature exposed hardware."
I can't help feeling that the current paint scheme and abundance of trees detract from the original design.

Pardon my french, but DAMN that is an ugly building and interior

tovangar2 Dec 5, 2015 7:10 AM

Presidents Visit LA

Originally Posted by Flyingwedge (Post 7258861)
The photo is dated April 22, 1891:

Benjamin Harrison was the second President to visit Los Angeles. The first was Hayes, in 1880.

Nice find!

Hayes did visit in 1880, never getting south of Temple.

Taft spoke in Praeger Park in 1911 and also at Blanchard Hall.
cdnc 15 Oct 1911

Almost all the 'presidential' locations have been redeveloped. Not the Alexandria, of course, which could sure use a restoration.

I'll have to look up who else made it out here.

Those Who Squirm! Dec 5, 2015 7:22 AM


Originally Posted by CityBoyDoug (Post 7258763)
[SIZE="3"]Thanks TWS for posting.

What a horrible people unfriendly design! Could it be any less of a shelter from sun or rain? Are roofing materials in short supply? Simply dreadful in the extreme!

From the few interior shots I've seen, it does seem to at least have an interior, which is is a cut about the typical modern bus terminal in these parts, which is usually little more than an array of outdoor bus bays. The El Monte facility does have a lower level of sheltered bays, but I don't know how the bays in general are assigned. In any event, as an important local transport center El Monte is probably a time point on most routes, so presumably riders don't need to be on the platform until the last minute or two before the bus is supposed to leave. It's not like an ordinary stop where you might have to stand there in the open for fifteen or twenty minutes, all the while peering down the street to see if there's an approaching bus in the distance.*

*Because, as an occasional transit user and bus rider, it seems that nearly every bus stop has a tree or pole at just the wrong spot, so if you sit on the bench you can't see the bus coming. And the driver can't see that there's someone sitting there waiting for the bus.

CityBoyDoug Dec 5, 2015 9:10 AM

History of Los Angeles in 14 minutes.

HossC Dec 5, 2015 10:30 AM


Thanks for the link, CBD. I enjoyed the video, but was slightly distracted by the closed captions. Some of them were perfect, but others were amusingly incorrect. I think my favorite is the one below. Talking about the origins of the harbour, it was supposed to say that 75 years ago there was nothing "but mud flats and some primitive docks" - close, yet so far away :).

BifRayRock Dec 5, 2015 3:50 PM


Originally Posted by tovangar2 (Post 7258912)
Nice find!

Hayes did visit in 1880, never getting south of Temple.

Taft spoke in Praeger Park in 1911 and also at Blanchard Hall.
cdnc 15 Oct 1911

Almost all the 'presidential' locations have been redeveloped. Not the Alexandria, of course, which could sure use a restoration.

I'll have to look up who else made it out here.

Source labels this as President Taft on a "Hollywood" Streetcar. Paradise Leased labels this as Hollywood and Highland, with Hollywood Hotel in Background.

Taft and the El Viento streetcar.


Discussion of numerous presidential visits to the S.Cal area:

Per :previous: article, Taft stayed with sister Francis and her husband at their 2600 West Adams home in 1909 and 1911

Side note: Article also references presidential aspirant William Jennings Bryant, who had a 1520 N. Ogden residence, that is still there.

tovangar2 Dec 5, 2015 5:28 PM

Presidential visits to LA, cont.
TR was here too. President Roosevelt was in LA on May 8, 1903. He spent the night in the Westminster Hotel at 4th and Main (the Alexandria didn't open until 1906).


I'm reminded that McKinley was here in 1901. He and the First Lady stayed at the Bivouac (what a coup for Otis).

McKinley at the Arcade Depot:

And Harrison in 1891 (here speaking at City Hall):

Lots more info on presidential visits here

HossC Dec 5, 2015 8:08 PM

These apartments were at 2319-25 S Beverly Glen Boulevard, on the corner of Ilona Avenue. They're Julius Shulman's "Job 507: Apartments (Los Angeles, Calif.),1949".

All from Getty Research Institute

It's difficult to make out the name in the first picture, even at full-resolution. It's definitely Beverly Glen [something] - my guess would be "Beverly Glen Gardens", but I haven't found any evidence to back that up. I've arrowed the apartments on the 1952 aerial below.
Historic Aerials

Looking at the building records, it appears that the new building permit for the apartments above was issued on 12/28/1948. A demo permit for a "10 unit apartment building" is dated 03/17/2000, and there's another permit for a new building dated 12/22/2000. Here's the new building on the site.

tovangar2 Dec 6, 2015 1:22 AM

Bay Street Beach / "The Inkwell"
I don't think Bay Street Beach / "The Inkwell" has come up before.

Beach Day, ca 1926.
Arthur, Jr and his mom, Verna, enjoy Bay Street Beach.
Club Casa del Mar is behind them:

There have been Black residents of Santa Monica since the late 1800s, with a neighborhood centered around 4th St and Bay.

In 1908, residents bought the fire-damaged Washington Street School from SMSD and moved it to 4th and Bay to be rehabbed into M.E. Philips Chapel. It's been remodeled, but it's still there:

Another African-American neighborhood was where the Civic Center is now and another on Broadway between 2nd and 6th. A fourth site was between Pico and Santa Monica Boulevards, from 14th to 24th streets.

Using the beach at Santa Monica was always fraught with the danger of harassment. However, the locals were safest from Pico south, in Ocean Park, well away from the early tourist areas. (The "Prohibited" isn't a racially-motivated sign. The whole sign isn't shown, but I'm guessing that the authorities probably just didn't want people climbing out on the rocks):

A group of Black businessmen decided to build a resort on the beach (on the abandoned ruin of the Ocean Park Chrystal Plunge), just north of Bay Street and south of Pico, but the city refused them a permit. They were left with no choice except to sell to Anglos. The Casa del Mar Club, AKA "The Dell"' (Charles F Plummer) was built in 1924. There was no trouble with the permit:

Casa del Mar fenced the beach in front of their club, running the fencing right into the water. Other White development went in south of Bicknell (also fenced), leaving African-Americans with a 200' stretch of sand from Bay Street to Bicknell, squeezed on both ends by White exclusivity. Blacks called this section "Bay Street Beach", but Anglos called it "The Inkwell" (the standard pejorative for beaches in the US attended by Black people).

The Santa Monica Bay Protective League was in full swing by then, proud of their membership of "1,000 Caucasians". The League's aim was to “eliminate all objectionable features or anything that now is or will provide a menace to the bay district or prove detrimental to our property values.” . They had a huge influence on the city government. LAT reported, “Settlement of Negroes is Opposed: Santa Monica and Ocean Park Blocks Plan for Colony of Colored Folk”, ignoring the fact that African-Americans had already lived in the municipality for decades. (ATM the African-American population of Santa Monica is less than 4%)

There was other trouble on the coast. When a Black family attempted to use the beach at the mouth of Topanga Canyon in 1920, police beat and shot the dad, Arthur Valentine, and then arrested him for assault with a deadly weapon. A stalwart DA charged the cops. But nothing happened for three years, during which time Valentine was regularly set upon by police officers. In the end, all charges were dropped against the officers... and Valentine:
google maps

Manhattan Beach also had an African-American neighborhood, complete with a 1912 beach resort, including a bath house, dining hall and rental cottages owned by Willa and Charles Bruce. The city government took it in 1924, and the neighborhood too, by eminent domain, saying it was needed for a park (slim compensation was paid, the resulting lawsuits were all dismissed). The land was cleared and then stood empty. The majority of the parcel was finally turned into Bayview Park in the 1960s and then renamed "Bruce's Beach" in 2007 with attendant apologies. However, a shameful percentage of Manhattan Beach residents still insist on calling it N*gg*r Park in smug triumph. Manhattan Beach is less than 1% Black.
google maps

Charles and Willa Bruce:

Charles and Willa on their wedding day:

State and local laws, from 1896 through the 20s ensured equal access for all at the beaches, but that was far from what was happening IRL. Like now, there were great laws on the books, but uneven enforcement. Plus the overwhelming influence of the social construct often trumps both the letter and the spirit of the law.

This 1947 diagram map detail shows Bay Street Beach as "Colored Use" and marks the boundaries of the private clubs to the north and south, which extended out into the ocean:
City of Santa Monica, Los Angeles County Master Shoreline Plan map, 1947, Division of Beaches and Parks, Department of Natural Resources,
Department of Engineering, State of California. USC Special Collections

alisonrosejefferson (detail)

However, Bay Street Beach was much enjoyed and appreciated. While never giving up the struggle for equal rights, African-Americans from all over Los Angeles drove or rode the Red Cars to the beach at weekends. I've read that Bay Street Beach was the only beach in Southern California relatively free of harassment.

From Verna Dekard Lewis Williams' 1924 photo album:

Verna and friend:

Verna and friends:
laist (detail)

Verna Dekard and Arthur Lewis, shortly before their wedding, up against the Dell's fence:

Nick Gabaldon, a Santa Monica native, born in 1927, of Latino and African-American descent, taught himself to surf, while still in high school, on a 13' rescue board lent to him by lifeguard Pete Peterson. Gabaldon was a natural and the first documented Black surfer. He remains a hero to many. Without a car and unable to hitchhike (no one would pick him up), Nick paddled across the bay from Bay Street to Malibu (and back) on his board to ride the big waves there. Gabaldon was welcomed at Malibu by the other surfers. His new surfing buddies started giving him rides, saving him his 12-mile watery commute. One said, "Race wasn't really an issue at Malibu," Everyone liked him. And he was as pretty smooth surfer, too." Nick, a student at SMC (his education had been interrupted by his service during WWII), was killed at Malibu in 1951 while trying to "shoot the pier". He was 24.

Nick and his buds at Malibu:

In 2008 a plaque was unveiled at Bay Street Beach, commemorating "The Inkwell" and Nick Gabaldon:

Alison Rose Jefferson, who has extensively documented Bay Street Beach and related issues, wrote the inscription:

From Bay to Bicknell, the 200' of Bay Street Beach:
google maps

Bay Street Beach viewed from inside Casa del Mar (now a hotel):
google maps photos

For more info, click photo links.

This post has been amended with the gracious and welcome help of Alison Rose Jefferson

Flyingwedge Dec 6, 2015 3:20 AM

:previous: Very interesting, t2. Thank you. When I lived in Manhattan Beach, Bruce's Beach was called Parque Culiacan.

tovangar2 Dec 6, 2015 3:26 AM


Originally Posted by Flyingwedge (Post 7259497)
:previous: Very interesting, t2. Thank you. When I lived in Manhattan Beach, Bruce's Beach was called Parque Culiacan.

I remember that. It was named to honor Manhattan Beach's sister city.


Culiacan is the capital of Sinaloa, where many of the Pobladores hailed from.

Bristolian Dec 6, 2015 6:22 AM

T2, I also found your post very interesting. As I started reading it I thought I might be able to add the story of Bruce's Beach but obviously you covered it.
I grew up in Manhattan Beach and was aware of the story. Before I learned the history, that strange and mostly useless park (because of the steep incline) seemed odd to me.
Certainly not the proudest moments in California beach history.

Here are a couple of recent views of the park from GSV

One from the top showing the monument acknowledging the past

And one from below

HossC Dec 6, 2015 8:21 PM

Here's a ladieswear store called Lucy's that Julius Shulman photographed in 1948. It's "Job 226: Lucy's (Los Angeles, Calif.),1948".

It looks like the photoshoot drew some spectators outside.

I'm surprised there weren't more men looking through the window ;).

All from Getty Research Institute

Looking through the 1956 CD, I found Lucy's Sports Shop (ladies' apparel) at 5515 Santa Monica Boulevard. Chuckaluck posted some circa 1950 pictures from a ladieswear store called Lucy's in post #15244. The door looks to be a very similar design to the one seen here, but one of Chuckaluck's pictures has a sign for the departments on the second floor, and this appears to be a single story building. I think it's safe to say that it's not the same location, but were the two stores connected?

Here's 5515 Santa Monica Boulevard today. The old Lucy's store has either been replaced or extensively remodeled.

I was trying to work out if the building to the right was the same one pictured in the Shulman photos. It's difficult to tell in the picture above, but the building was only painted sometime between between February and June 2014. Here's a closer view from 2011 which shows the brickwork very clearly, and it's a perfect match with the Shulman pictures.

The first two Shulman pictures show the opposite side of the street refelected in the windows. Spinning the GSV camera around, I discovered that all the stores have been replaced, mainly by the parking lot for a strip mall.

CityBoyDoug Dec 6, 2015 11:01 PM


Originally Posted by HossC (Post 7259986)
Here's a ladieswear store called Lucy's that Julius Shulman photographed in 1948. It's "Job 226: Lucy's (Los Angeles, Calif.),1948".

It looks like the photoshoot drew some spectators outside.

That wall decor is hilarious in a 1950s sorta style.

Those Who Squirm! Dec 7, 2015 3:06 AM


I just finished with a book that I think all of you would enjoy:

The Biggest Liar In Los Angeles, by Ken Kuhlken. (Link to Google Books page, though I personally listened to an audio copy from SDPL.)

A murder mystery set in mid 1920s L.A., this is a great read (or listen) and replete with details of architecture and cityscape right up our alley; some gone but many still extant. The protagonists are the Hickey siblings Tom and Florence, in this book 21 and 16 yoa respectively, living at the Cactus Court Cottages. Aiding and abetting is old friend Leo Weiss, a disaffected, fired, then rehired LAPD detective. Apparently this is only one of the "California Century" series of novels about the Hickey family, which from what I've seen are set in various years throughout the 20th century.

I'm confident the mods and admins are OK with me posting this; everyone knows I've been here for years rather than a spammer-come-lately.

tovangar2 Dec 7, 2015 7:24 PM

Verna Deckard Lewis Williams: a life
In that post on Bay Street Beach, I was so taken by Verna Deckard Lewis Williams, the young woman posing with her friends and her future husband, Arthur Lewis. She seemed so lively and confident, not to mention seriously stylish:


Originally Posted by tovangar2 (Post 7259433)
Verna and Arthur, shortly before their wedding, up against the Dell's fence:

More photos from her album are on LAPL, and, like a trail of breadcrumbs, led me to much more info about her life and Los Angeles.

The earliest photo I found is Verna as a child with her dad, Jule, back in their hometown of Tatum, Texas. Jule, who owned a blacksmith shop and garage, taught Verna to drive when she was seven. Jule loved cars, but, as there were only three in all of Tatum, the Deckard family moved to Los Angeles, where there were plenty (Verna's driving career had to be put on hold for a few years).

Jule Deckard ("Papa") and his three Fords in Los Angeles:
lapl (detail)

Jule ensured that Verna had wheels. Verna and the "Joy Girls", during their high school years, lounging on her Ford coupe. Verna regularly drove her friends to Bay Street Beach and also to school. Verna often had the two-seater so packed (including friends riding on the running boards) that the police intervened, ca 1924. Great photo:

Verna with other clubwomen, all young wives, and her son, Arthur, Jr, on the lawn of a house near 35th Pl and Raymond, still a lovely neighborhood with many original homes. ca 1926:

A portrait of Verna and little Arthur soon after Arthur, Sr's untimely death from tuberculosis (inset is a photo of Arthur, Sr) ca 1927:

A family tinged by grief. Newly-widowed Verna and little Arthur with her dad and mom, Eula, scoping out Val Verde in the Santa Clarita Valley (more on Val Verde below*), ca 1927:
lapl (detail)

Two shots of Verna in a beauty contest at Parkridge County Club in Corona, ca 1928:

Still full of Joy, Verna poses on the golf course:

Verna, front and center, lined up for photographers in front of the clubhouse with the other young women:

The clubhouse:

Clara Bow was the first member of the 1926 Parkridge County Club (she won the membership in a dance contest at the Montmartre Cafe). The club gained many celebrity members. However, due to poor management, the club closed after just two years. In ca 1928 it was purchased by a group of African-American businessmen, who developed it into the most prominent and largest African-American country club in the country.

The club had its own air strip:

Much later, Parkridge was used as a sanitarium and finally demolished in the 60s. The combined Cresta Verde Golf Course and housing development is on the site now:

Verna and friends Mabel and Marie in Spanish dress at a Halloween Ball at La Veda Ballroom, Vernon and Wall, ca 1929:

Verna and Arthur on the lawn of her parents' home on Hooper Lane, south of downtown (Hooper Lane is now almost totally cleared) ca 1930:

ca 1931. Verna, chatting with a steward, and friends on the boat to Catalina:

An image of Arthur at his grandparents' house, taken by an itinerant photographer ca 1932 . When I was a kid, photographers used to come round the neighborhoods with a pony for children to pose on. This is the first time I've seen a goat and cart:

There are other images, the last I could find dated 1973, most of Ms Williams (she did eventually remarry) in her role as a clubwoman

It's seriously great that Ms. Williams made these images available to LAPL.

*A note on Val Verde:

In 1924 a group of Black professionals, including Sidney P Dones, Joe and Charlotta Bass, publishers, and others established a one-thousand-acre safe haven for African-Americans in the Santa Clarita Valley.

(At almost the same time, Dr Wilber C Gordon had tried for a site he named Gordon Manor (more subdivision than resort), then near, now in, Torrance (from Manhattan Beach Blvd to Redondo Beach Blvd, between Prairie and Crenshaw), but, after the project was quite far along, the land was condemned by the County, under pressure from PV homeowners. A fascinating and horrifying story. Attorney Henry O'Melveny and Frederick Law Olmsted don't come out of it well):
google maps

Although integration was the goal, the fact that being the object of racial animosity is seriously exhausting and debilitating made a haven like Val Verde distinctly welcome.

The approach to Val Verde, which seemed as remote from the cares of the world as Shangri La:

Laura Janes, (one of the Pasadena Janes) made the sale to African-Americans possible.

The land was divided into half-acre lots for vacation homes. Inns and guest houses were built too and a community center. Tennis courts, a 9-hole golf course, hiking trails and stables rounded out the resort. A theater, featuring all-Black productions was built. Bill Robinson helped establish a church. Restaurants, shops and even a nightclub (all the most popular bands made the trek out to play) were added. Although not affordable for everyone Val Verde and Parkridge CC absorbed some of the pressure brought on by the social construct. Thousands came out for weekend events or just to swim and relax.

The town was renamed Eureka Villa, changed from the original name of Val Verde, the nearby site of a short-lived 19th-century gold camp (the name was soon changed back).

October, 1925:

People from as far away as Chicago built vacation homes. Never exclusively African-American, people of good-will from all ancestries bought in too to escape the poisoned atmosphere back in the city.

In 1939 fifty acres was donated to LA County for a regional park. The WPA came up with money for a swimming pool (Hattie McDaniel and Louise Beavers were at the pool's grand opening):

As racial restrictions eased, Val Verde's reason for being began to fade. Long-overdue access to LA's leisure and entertainment venues became universal, if not always entirely comfortable. Val Verde is now majority Hispanic. It's also a favorite CalArts retirement spot. It's managed to never lose its serene, rural atmosphere.
google maps

The 1994 earthquake caused absolute havoc in Val Verde. Almost all the historic buildings were heavily damaged or destroyed. Even the pool had to be rebuilt. The town is up and running again now, of course, but I read that the 2,500 residents rely on a single local shop.

More info on Val Verde:

Black Past

This post has been amended and corrected with the gracious and welcome help of Alison Rose Jefferson

HossC Dec 7, 2015 9:11 PM

Due to the number of images, this Julius Shulman post is going to be another two-parter. It spans two photosets and two different years, so it seemed to make sense to split them up. Part 1 is "Job 487: Franciscan Motel (Los Angeles, Calif.),1949". Although this photoset is earlier than the second that I'll be posting, it was actually the second one that I found, so you can see how the first image with the Hollywood Bowl in the foreground saved me a lot of time searching for the location!

Here's a closer view looking over the freeway.

The entrance was directly opposite the freeway bridge.

This courtyard shot shows a mixture of one- and two-story buildings.

I think the pool must've been set into the hillside on the northeast corner of the site.

Here's a trio of interior shots. You can see the pool through the window in the first one.

This photoset finishes with another look at the entrance.

All from Getty Research Institute

Part 2 will hopefully follow tomorrow.

ethereal_reality Dec 7, 2015 10:19 PM

:previous: How have we missed this place after almost 6 years of NLA? Great find HossC.

The Franciscan reminds me somewhat of the Portal Motor Hotel (also located in Cahuenga Pass)

Portal post (with photographs)


Fantastic post on "The Inkwell" tovanger2.
-really enjoyed the Verna Williams photographs. They're amazing.

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