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  #1  
Old Posted Jan 19, 2024, 11:38 PM
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The Southern Metropolis

Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo

Put 22 million people in a place and see what happens. Urban fizz pop bang.

Not somewhere I would have chosen to visit (here to see friends), but so glad I did. It is everything they (the media, my assumption) says it is, and everything they say it isn't.

It is a spectacle -the world's most built up place with an estimated 50,000 tall buildings, and absolutely mined with plurality, change and renewal. And surprisingly, so much built history.












Spot the pool party - throughout the city it's riddled with semi-secret rooftop bars, galleries, pools and lounges, some for those in the know, others as a public forum for all

x













From above it all looks like a concrete, highrise morass. From below the mix of architecture is incredible. My gorgeous hosts:




Yuri -nicest, most interesting guy you'll meet. This was a social living block at one of his friends', with its rooftop bar/ lounge for the residents -there were also other lounges, other rooftop pools, games rooms, gym, BBQ space, bars, cafes, playground, gardens, self service shop, and in the Brazilian way, an instant hyper-friendly community to go with your tiny flat. Even the laundromat had a luxe balcony and views.




Back in London laying on such a place would be completely unaffordable even to the rich. -Think student halls for the middle classes, but without the middle class hangups and at a much younger age. You can have a good life out here, and don't have to be swimming in liquidity.









There's something very monumental about the quality of Sampa's buildings




And OMG the parks. They blew me away -I really thought London had the best, but its hard to compete with jungle wilderness






And everywhere, everything all at once, the city:







x




The antennae on Avenida Paulista are massive (a street lined by skyscrapers 3 miles long, built on a hill so the highest spot for miles), some reducing the buildings below to mere stumps. They have a very Eiffel-esque quality in real life as they are huge, much bigger than the picture can show. Also much celebrated by the locals -lit in different colours at night and often used as viewing decks.

j

Last edited by muppet; Jan 20, 2024 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Posted Jan 19, 2024, 11:52 PM
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The mix of architecture in the reviving Old downtown is crazy -the old and new at every turn, on every street reminded me a lot of London's The City financial district or Lower Manhattan -but bigger. It just went on for miles in every direction.








I've never seen more art deco than in SP, many merging seamlessly into moderne or neo classical in equal measure. Half the time it's effectively disguised.




I found it hard to realise that such a city exists and hardly anyone knows it, so large an area completely off the radar. This CBD has been dormant for a while, but fast reviving -very Berlin a la noughties apparently in terms of the bloom in art and culture, parties and speakeasies, still at easy prices.




This curving building is the Edificio Copan, a vast wavelike classic by Oscar Niemayer. So meticulously restored it's taking decades as they source the accurate materials and build in the same techniques. Inside they've restored the community 'streets', of small mom n pop stores mixed with boutiques, bars and restaurants -all on a slope/ ramp that meanders through the bottom floors, akin to a city hill.










m







Everywhere is being restored, some slower than others:





















Last edited by muppet; Feb 6, 2024 at 11:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old Posted Jan 19, 2024, 11:56 PM
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The early modernism here is often par excellence. How it was always meant to be used:






if you look very, very carefully, the majority of these buildings are art deco:




A better view of the Copan, draped in gauze





The density of the city is staggering




Even the dated styles were good quality -while here I developed an appreciation for all things Eighties, pomo and luxe







Literally jizzed over these two -brutalist hangovers, yet minimalist, yet classy



70s architecture was also high end, with a lot of detail and finish. The building at right used traditional materials and Brazilian styled wooden shutters to create a randomised geometric effect, functional yet aesthetic










Neither have I seen so many murals, let alone giant, skyscraping ones, they're pretty much on every block. The image has an art deco quality, reflecting the building





Vultures were everywhere -this was on the busiest street, Avenida Paulista. The other is a cute guy





As mentioned, some rooftop pools were private, others public, with sublime views as standard. We just donlt get anything like this in my part of the world:





The building at right reclaimed the derelicts around it, mirroring the materials and creating an aesthetic:




There are two types of park -ones with lawns and flowers and views, others that are thick with cover, and offer cool glades.




In the more conventional style of green space, people wander and take in the air, read books, recreate or have picnics. You'll notice sufferers of a national T-shirt shortage searching desperately for their clothing, occasionally working out their frustration in the outdoor gyms, some of them facing bars where you can take a ringside seat, I mean chair. This appears to be a major issue afflicting good looking people, which is pretty much everyone in Brazil.


Notice that ONE bloke slowly painting the giant mural:








In the forested version it's much more private, where couples or friends go to chat quietly (hug, scroll, often cry). I will always be impressed by how at ease Brazilians are in public.

It's astounding to the uninitiated -pretty much slices of rainforest crisscrossed by shady paths where lovers intertwine. The minute you set foot in there the degrees drop dramatically with natural aircon







All over the city public spaces are being reclaimed -this was an epic Third Place to hang out, in an arts/ community complex completely permeable to the street. The city now actively encourages loitering, from subway entrances lined with seating to entire buildings apparently given over to it -for resting shoppers, scrolling teens, coffee huggers, beer tipplers, and bookworms. Even office complexes will carry public lawns and deckchairs that the great unwashed get to grace.

If ever one of those roving crazy people starts participating, and you know, starts shitting in a bag or something, well we all stab him. Or the security guard sighs dispiritedly and waddles over, with war in his eyes. Then stands behind them for the next 4 hrs, occasionally playing with his phone.




This stonking great gateway to the old Downtown is a national treasure due to it being made by a celebrated modernist. However unpopular with the populace, because it impinges on an otherwise great view, and no one's enamoured by the plainness -pristine and daring back in the day, now not so much. It reminds me of a similar issue on Manchester's main square, and the demolition of Pritzker award winning Tadao Ando's piece of crap, which closely resembled a wall. The council may or may not be waiting for it to corrode into nothing.



Everywhere are villas and mansions, survivors from a bygone era. Some are crumbling, and many have no owners as their descendants can't be traced, and themselves don't even know they inherited. Others are restored beautifully, fighting off the developers.






Last edited by muppet; Jan 27, 2024 at 12:34 AM.
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  #4  
Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 12:15 AM
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The Japanese community in the city is 700,000 strong:











This tiny church (see if you can spot it) is a shrine to Black Brazilian history, in an area once known as Campo da Forca (Field of the Gallows). In 1821 a soldier named Chaguinhas was sent for execution for leading an insurrection, but the noose broke 3 x causing the crowd to chant for Liberdade, or freedom (he was then beaten to death by the authorities). The district for execution took the name, becoming the only place a slave could get 'liberty' -through death.





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s








This building by the firm Tryptich, mirrors an ancient fig tree in front of it (not in shot)




Its other side will one day be covered by climbers




This art deco mall (with Jetsons futurism) had been taken over by Sao Paulo's urban tribes -tattoo and piercing studios, skaters, surfers, goths, rockers, punks, and k-poppers







I loved this solid block of art deco, one still being restored, others awaiting it. The mission building on the right is a complex 500 years old:










Last edited by muppet; Jan 21, 2024 at 8:59 PM.
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  #5  
Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 1:35 AM
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More Eighties and stealth deco wonder




Fig trees (left) start off as creepers, but then thicken, laying down more and more vines. Slowly they merge and encapsulate the host tree in a cylinder of bark, which suffocates what's below then rots it away. What's left is a giant drum of a tree, that dot the city's main streets:








Those were my first two days, more to follow...

Last edited by muppet; Jan 20, 2024 at 12:02 PM.
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  #6  
Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 3:55 AM
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Cool. Nice to see a new muppet thread.
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Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 4:09 AM
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I adore muppet threads so thank you.
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Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 7:56 AM
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Awesome!
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  #9  
Old Posted Jan 20, 2024, 8:09 PM
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Thanks guys x
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Old Posted Jan 21, 2024, 3:19 AM
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Terrific photos, muppet!

I figured it would be an amazing city to visit. Why wouldn't it be?

And glad to know Yuri is doing well! He hasn't posted in a very long time, it seems.
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Old Posted Jan 21, 2024, 4:51 PM
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Great stuff looking forward to the rest
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  #12  
Old Posted Jan 21, 2024, 8:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muppet View Post

This building by the firm Tryptich, mirrors an ancient fig tree in front of it


Wow, I absolutely love this building!
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Old Posted Jan 21, 2024, 9:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sopas ej View Post
Terrific photos, muppet!

I figured it would be an amazing city to visit. Why wouldn't it be?

And glad to know Yuri is doing well! He hasn't posted in a very long time, it seems.
Yes thanks, he's doing great and really is the loveliest guy. I think Sampa is a victim of its own success, whenever you see those impressive shots of its endless highrises, it actually masks what's on the ground and is easy to assume it's all concrete. What gets hidden are entire districts of old buildings that reminded me of a second Barcelona (colonial, baroque, empire, 19th Century, art nouveau), plus the endless options of bars, restaurants, clubs, cafes etc, and art deco hiding in plain sight. If you're a fan of early and mid Century modernism the city is unbeatable, and something it really celebrates nowadays. A ton of restoration going on.
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 2:41 AM
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Outstanding. Thank you so much.
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 2:56 AM
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“Outstanding” feels like an understatement. This photo thread was a real treat. Discovering SP through muppet’s excellent commentary (aren’t you a professional museum guide in real life?) was a fantastic experience. Now I want to add it to my travel list right now! (I’d have to work a bit to convince Yuri though, he was pissed at me last I checked!)
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 4:29 PM
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First of all, what a pleasure to have had you here, muppet! Your curiosity, attention to details, lack of any prejudices and passion for uban life are contagious. I loved every single day. I was through a rough time and you really managed to bring some lightness and actual fun.

I was by your side in almost all of those pics and they're still fascinating to me. I really love this city, a place that became my home, a city that offers everything that I'm eager for, doing it much better than any other city. Still, seeing this collection, it seems São Paulo is something completely new. Those pics are really, really amazing!

I'm here waiting for more!

P.S. Thank you for the "gorgeous hosts"!
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 5:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lio45 View Post
“Outstanding” feels like an understatement. This photo thread was a real treat. Discovering SP through muppet’s excellent commentary (aren’t you a professional museum guide in real life?) was a fantastic experience. Now I want to add it to my travel list right now! (I’d have to work a bit to convince Yuri though, he was pissed at me last I checked!)
No worries. I can show you the city.
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 7:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri View Post
First of all, what a pleasure to have had you here, muppet! Your curiosity, attention to details, lack of any prejudices and passion for uban life are contagious. I loved every single day. I was through a rough time and you really managed to bring some lightness and actual fun.

I was by your side in almost all of those pics and they're still fascinating to me. I really love this city, a place that became my home, a city that offers everything that I'm eager for, doing it much better than any other city. Still, seeing this collection, it seems São Paulo is something completely new. Those pics are really, really amazing!

I'm here waiting for more!

P.S. Thank you for the "gorgeous hosts"!
Hellllooooo! Long time no see

Thank you for being a smashing host, I'm missing Sampa already, and really shouldnt have wasted my hard earned cash on that return flight. More pics coming!


hug hug hug
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 8:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Evo5Boise View Post
Wow, I absolutely love this building!

Yep, it's by Triptyche, which has dozens of projects in the city. This is the old fig tree that inspired it, one of many on the street. The place is pretty much Ferngully:


Last edited by muppet; Jan 27, 2024 at 12:43 AM.
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Old Posted Jan 22, 2024, 11:17 PM
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No worries. I can show you the city.
Well then my gf and I might show up this summer then (seriously). We’re looking to go somewhere cool. She doesn’t speak English though (let alone Portuguese) so she might veto it as a destination, hope not
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