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  #21  
Old Posted Feb 11, 2024, 1:53 AM
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xzmattzx xzmattzx is offline
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I'm up to post #15. That riverfront needs some work, for sure. Thanks for showing St. Rupert's Church! I like seeing the oldest types of buildings in cities.
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  #22  
Old Posted Feb 14, 2024, 6:29 PM
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Thursday, January 18, 2024

Kutná Hora, Czech Republic: Kutná Hora, you're the one! (*Rubber duckie noises*) Memento mori are lots of fun! (*Rubber duckie noises*) Kutná Hora, I'm awfully fond of you!


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You really can't expect us to go somewhere so close to the Sedlec Ossuary and not go see it. For the uninitiated, the Sedlec Ossuary is on of those odd, and oddly European, spaces where something needed to be done when the cemetery filled up, and the thing that got done was to dig up the cemetery, arrange the bones in pretty patterns, and leave them out for all and sundry to observe and admire in perpetuity. In the case of the Sedlec Ossuary, located in the city of Kutná Hora near Prague, not only were the bones arranged, but they were used as building materials for various things in the small chapel that makes up the ossuary. That includes a large chandelier that incorporates at least one of every bone in the body. There was also a large crest of the family that commissioned this project, also made of bones, and one of the quarters of their shield features a raven pecking at the eyes of a Turk's head. In the Sedlec version the Turk's head was represented by an actual skull, of course, and the raven was sculpted of finger bones.

To get to Kutná Hora you need to take a train, a pleasant experience in Prague because their central train station is an achingly lovely art nouveau building. What with one thing and another, we passed by or through the train station repeatedly during our visit.









There are two stations in Kutná Hora, one closer to Sedlec area of town and one closer to the central city area. Either way though, you're going to be walking a bit to get where you want to go. En route we passed by an abandoned building.













Photography inside the ossuary itself is not permitted, so please enjoy these closeups we took of magnets in the gift shop instead.





Kutná Hora is an atmospheric city, fabulously wealthy from the 1300s to the 1600s thanks to its silver mines, and with an architectural legacy to prove it. For instance, the city has two gothic cathedrals despite a modern-day population of only about 21,000.



Sometimes that atmosphere is just weird.





Sometimes it's just plain atmospheric.









































































































Then it was back to Prague for another dose of atmospheric urbanity.



Back in Prague, the item on our agenda was a visit to the Mucha Museum, which promises a nice, but smallish, selection of Alphonse Mucha's work in advertising as well as a painting called Woman in the Wilderness that I found moving and am considering buying a print of. However, the Mucha Museum also does not allow photography so you'll have to settle for this view of it snowing after we left the museum.





















Dinner was Indian.

















Dessert was, of course, cake.



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  #23  
Old Posted Feb 15, 2024, 9:46 PM
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Epic thread! I once visited almost all the places that you did, with the exception of Kutná Hora, so seeing much better photos than I took is lots of fun!
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  #24  
Old Posted Feb 15, 2024, 10:31 PM
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Epic thread! I once visited almost all the places that you did, with the exception of Kutná Hora, so seeing much better photos than I took is lots of fun!
I've still got a couple more days' worth of photos too. Did you go to the State Opera in Prague? That building was astonishing.

My only regret is that these were all crappy phone photos. My husband took some with an actual camera, and if I can get our desktop to stop fighting me I'll post those too.
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"To sustain the life of a large, modern city in this cloying, clinging heat is an amazing achievement. It is no wonder that the white men and women in Greenville walk with a slow, dragging pride, as if they had taken up a challenge and intended to defy it without end." -- Rebecca West for The New Yorker, 1947
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  #25  
Old Posted Feb 16, 2024, 7:11 PM
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hauntedheadnc hauntedheadnc is online now
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Friday, January 19, 2024

Prague, Czech Republic: What rolls down stairs alone or in pairs, and over your neighbor's dog? What's great for a snack and fits on your back? It's Prague, Prague, Prague!


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I enjoy winter travel. In fact, I recommend it because you get to wear decent clothes and there is less sweating, less stinking, and less swamp ass involved. It's also an excellent excuse to stay inside. On Friday we had another opera planned, but not until that night, so to keep warm during the day we decided to head over to the National Museum.









And of course we had to pass by the train station again.





























There are two parts to the National Museum, an older part and a newer part. We confined ourselves to the older part.

































































At one point while walking around the dioramas there was a place where you could sit and watch a little video about the process of building such a diorama. They had a lot of fun with it, because it went from a timelapse of building a mammoth to a little baby mammoth running around the museum loose at night, to that baby being pursued by various prehistoric beasts... At one point it showed this particular prehistoric beast busting out of its glass case to join the hunt -- which is why the case is depicted with a crack in it.





More rocks... So many rocks. The National Museum had an enormous rock collection, but the odd thing was that there was only one room of rocks and minerals found in the Czech Republic. You got the feeling they had all the others just because they looked neat, and I can respect that.

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They had quite a few glowing rocks as well, which I know a certain forumer will appreciate.























































Part of the appeal of the National Museum is the architecture itself, which makes it a must for any SSP forumer who finds themselves in Prague. You can go up in the cupola of the museum to find delightful city views.











































Dinner was Italian. One of the best things about travel is getting inspired by what you find to eat. I recreated this dish of pasta with salmon and spinach pesto, except with chicken.



After dinner, it was time to walk to the State Opera to watch a performance of Tosca.



From the outside, the State Opera looks lovely, but not unlike a lot of other theaters across Europe.



On the inside, the State Opera is perhaps the most palatial, opulent building I have ever had the pleasure to visit.











Unlike at the opera house in Vienna, this time we did it right and got ourselves a box.





















Then it was time to walk back to the hotel, passing by the train station of course. We went inside because in the rush to head out to Kutná Hora the day before, I'd caught a glimpse of something in the station I wanted to see, but we didn't have the time. Heading back from the opera, we decided to fix that.



This is one of two monuments at Prague Main Station dedicated to Sir Nicholas Winton, who organized the rescue of 669 children from Czechoslovakia before the Nazi invasion. Most of the parents of the children he transported to Britain were later killed in Auschwitz. Sir Nicholas Winton was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003, received the Czech Order of the White Lion, the highest honor the Czech government can bestow upon a person, in 2014, and died in 2015 at the age of 106.

The trains transporting the 669 children to safety departed from this station. One more train, with 250 children on it, had been scheduled to depart on September 1, 1939 but was unable to do so due to the official outbreak of World War II. Of those 250 children, two survived the war.











We ended the night in a contemplative mood.



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"To sustain the life of a large, modern city in this cloying, clinging heat is an amazing achievement. It is no wonder that the white men and women in Greenville walk with a slow, dragging pride, as if they had taken up a challenge and intended to defy it without end." -- Rebecca West for The New Yorker, 1947
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  #26  
Old Posted Feb 22, 2024, 6:51 PM
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Saturday, January 20, 2024

Prague, Czech Republic: It's Pra-ague, it's Pra-ague, it's big, it's heavy, it's wood! It's Pra-ague, it's Pra-ague, it's better than bad, it's good! Prague: From Blammo!


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On our last day in Prague we didn't exactly mean to go visit the grave of Franz Kafka. I had just seen on the map there was a very large cemetery close to the part of town where we were staying, and thought it might be nice to go see. We both like cemeteries, so we set off.





















This style of columbarium was something I hadn't seen before, where you put an urn with the ashes of your loved one in a little space with a glass door, about the size of a microwave oven, and then go visit it from time to time. Most were kept up as little shrines, with photos of the person, some flowers, sometimes little toys or candy or mementos. It was rather touching to see.































































































Naturally enough, though, the grave of Franz Kafka is in the Jewish Cemetery, right beside the one we were walking around. The Jewish Cemetery, naturally enough, is closed on Saturdays. And so, when you go to a cemetery, and then discover the grave of Franz Kafka is in the vicinity but that you can't visit it because it's Saturday, the only left to do, really, is go to the giant shopping mall next to the cemeteries and eat conveyor belt sushi.







And then the thing to do is set out for the giant TV tower, the one with creepy statues of babies crawling up the side, that dominates the city skyline.

Discussion question: Why is a TV tower such a prominent feature of the Prague skyline when, at least as far as we could tell, Czech TV is so awful?



































































































Our last dinner in Prague was Mexican.

They tried.

Bless their hearts.





We left Sunday morning, but the departure was problematic. The plane that would fly us from Prague to London had to fly from London to Prague first, and caught fire en route and had to turn back. This caused us to take off, in another plane, several hours late and miss our connecting flight from London to Charlotte. It turns out that British Airways will give you a fresh white t-shirt and some rudimentary toiletries if you miss your flight because of their error, and they will promise you vouchers for food without ever actually providing those vouchers. They will not, however, cover the cost of a hotel.

But on the bright side, there was a hotel nearby to Heathrow and it was a place to sleep, even if it had the charm of a wastewater treatment plant.

It was also a place to eat, so this was our last meal in Europe.

For now.

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"To sustain the life of a large, modern city in this cloying, clinging heat is an amazing achievement. It is no wonder that the white men and women in Greenville walk with a slow, dragging pride, as if they had taken up a challenge and intended to defy it without end." -- Rebecca West for The New Yorker, 1947
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  #27  
Old Posted Feb 23, 2024, 12:22 AM
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Murphy de la Sucre Murphy de la Sucre is offline
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"driving from Greenville to Charlotte, flying from Charlotte to London, flying from London to Vienna"

first thought was why not driving to Atlanta? then checked no direct flight from there to viena neither

see the best route is fly to NYC then direct to viena, haven't ever thought about it? why not?
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  #28  
Old Posted Feb 23, 2024, 1:04 AM
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hauntedheadnc hauntedheadnc is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy de la Sucre View Post
"driving from Greenville to Charlotte, flying from Charlotte to London, flying from London to Vienna"

first thought was why not driving to Atlanta? then checked no direct flight from there to viena neither

see the best route is fly to NYC then direct to viena, haven't ever thought about it? why not?
It always depends on what airline is flying where on what day for what price. We're halfway between Atlanta and Charlotte so we always check them, after checking Greenville. We've yet to have found a flight that was enough of a savings to justify going to Atlanta. Usually the price difference is only about $20.
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"To sustain the life of a large, modern city in this cloying, clinging heat is an amazing achievement. It is no wonder that the white men and women in Greenville walk with a slow, dragging pride, as if they had taken up a challenge and intended to defy it without end." -- Rebecca West for The New Yorker, 1947
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  #29  
Old Posted Mar 3, 2024, 6:54 PM
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xzmattzx xzmattzx is offline
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I made it through page 1, but still have more to go. Nice pictures of Prague! I love the ones of the changing weather.

Did you drink any Czech beers?
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  #30  
Old Posted Mar 4, 2024, 11:04 AM
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hauntedheadnc hauntedheadnc is online now
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I made it through page 1, but still have more to go. Nice pictures of Prague! I love the ones of the changing weather.

Did you drink any Czech beers?
Neither of us like beer, so I didn't at all, but he had one the night after the opera.
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"To sustain the life of a large, modern city in this cloying, clinging heat is an amazing achievement. It is no wonder that the white men and women in Greenville walk with a slow, dragging pride, as if they had taken up a challenge and intended to defy it without end." -- Rebecca West for The New Yorker, 1947
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  #31  
Old Posted Mar 6, 2024, 4:50 AM
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xzmattzx xzmattzx is offline
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I made it to your Kutna Hora pictures. Great! I really like that deer on the wall corner on that one building!
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