GDANSK – Nightsky's trip to Poland's historical hansa city

[Nightsky]

ABOUT Gdansk

Population: 461 000 (metro 1 081 000)
Country: Poland
Other names: Danzig
Tallest building: Centrum Biurowe Neptun (85m)
Region: Pomerania
Founded year (city rights): 1263
Area: 262 km²
Year visited: 2014

Gdansk is Poland's 6th largest city and is part of Tricity, that is Poland's 3rd largest metropolitan area, and consist of Gdansk, Gdynia and Sopot. Gdansk is the largest of these 3 cities. It is situated in the Northern part of Poland, with a port near the Baltic Sea and close to the mouth of the river Motlawa, that flows through the city center. River Vistula's branch Martwa Wisla flows through the North part of the city. Historically Gdansk is a very important port city with a dark history; it was one of the important Hansa cities (trade cities at the Baltic sea), the first shootings of World War II took place at Westerplatte in the outskirts of the city, and the strikes that lead to the end of the Polish communist regime, lead by Lech Walesa, took place in a shipyard near the city center. The modern Solidarity museuma and the Three crosses monument have been built there, now a popular attraction for tourists. Gdansk is the historical capital of Eastern Pomerania. It has been ruled by both Germans and Poles, since it is situated near the West Slavic and Germanic medieval lands. Between the two world wars (1920-39), Gdansk was called the Free city of Danzig, and was a semi-autonomous city-state, then inhabitated primary by ethnic Germans (95%). The minorities, Poles and jews, were discriminated, or sent to death in concentration camps! Sometimes you still can see the spelling Danzig,that is the German name. After the end of WWII in 1945, most Germans were replaced by Poles. Gdansk has been partly independent or autonomous several times through history. For example, it was also called Danzig as a free region 1815-1920, within the Kingdom of Prussia, later the Prussian Province.
The Old Town is filled with museums, restaurants and historical monuments. The main street is the pedestrian street Dluga with its square Dluga targ, where you find many of the interesting sites, many historical building in different styles (especially renaissance but also baroque and gothic) can be found here. St Mary's Church is the tallest and most prominent church in Gdansk (it is the largest brick church in the world), and is together with the Town Hall the tallest building in the city center. St Mary's Church offers fine views of the city center (we walked the 400 steps to the observation point).

The central station is situated at the edge of the city center, nearby is 3 modern highrises and a recently built shopping mall called Madison. Most of the historic buildings are in the city center. In the outskirts you will mostly find monotonou highrise areas filled with dull commie blocks, shopping malls and some villas. Even though the city center is flat, you will immediatly discover several very hilly areas, when going to the airport by bus. Once you leave the city, you will also discover that it is much much larger then it appears in its very compact historical city center.
The city is trafficated by red and white buses, and trams. Most of them are pretty modern. Blue commuting trains takes you to Gdynia or Sopot within less then an hour. The airport is called Lech Walesa and is where we arrived. We took a bus to the central station, had dinner at the station's KFC and then walked, after dark, to our centrally located apartment hotel.

MY EXPERIENCE
Since Gdansk is situated in the northernmost part of Poland, it is easy to reach from Sweden. The lowfare airline Wizzair, a real scam company, has low price tickets to Gdansk from Malmö, however I don't recommend to fly with them since they take hidden fares at the airport. They refuse to let you on the flight if you haven't checked in online, something they didn't give information about, and you have to pay an extra fee that is more then the whole plane ticket to fly home! I could tell you hundreds of stories from passangers that where fooled by Wizzair but this is about Gdansk and not about some criminal lowfare airline!
We stayed for 2 whole days and 2 half days in the Tricity area, we spent most of the time in Gdansk, except for one day when we went to Gdynia and Sopot. The train to these bordering cities was just a few zlotys and take less then an hour to get there. Gdansk is a very nice city to visit, with impressive historical building in its very compact and walkable Old Town. At the end of the Old Town, there is a nice riverfront at the river Motlawa with open air restaurants. The September day (Sep 11th) we walked through Gdansk it was sunny and clear skies. The prices are also good, much cheaper then in Sweden, though it can get pricy at the most fashionable restaurants (almost as pricy as in Sweden) but in general most stores and restaurants have a very good value for money for tourists.
We stayed at the Kamienica Zacisze, a small apartment hotel right in the heart of Gdansk, Ulica Ogarna, a parallel street to Ulica Dluga and just a few minutes away from most of the sights. It was incredible value for money, for only about 100 euros for 3 nights and 2 persons you get a whole apartment with fashionable furniture -some in old style, a modern kitchen, marble toilet with shower, a bedroom and views over St Mary's Church and the City Hall from the window. It is only reachable from a courtyard, the building has 5 floors with an elevator luckily. The only downside is that it is self service with no restaurants or other facitilites, and almost no staff, they were not the most friendly (they didn't say anything to us upon check in, just gave us a paper to sign and a key). In general, Poland is not exactly the country of service and politeness, people are not rude but they are very introvert and don't say much at all. Partly that could be because they are not used to speak English.

The museums we visited were the Solidarity Musuem (about Lech Walesa, the revolution and the strikes) and a small toy museum. We also tried to visit the merchants house Villa Uphagen but it was closed by unknown reason, and they didn't open the door (despite it was during opening hours). Since the city center is very walkable, and since we stayed in the old town, we could walk everywhere; the only time we had to use a train or bus was when leaving Gdansk or going to the airport.

We also visited the beautiful resort town Sopot and the modern harbour city Gdynia, both also part of the Tricity metropolitan area.

Click on the link below to read more and watch the pictures:

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk.html

[Nightsky]

CITY CENTER – MAIN TOWN:

Gdansk's Main Town (Glówne Miasto) occupies the most important part of the city center (Sródmiescie) of this Hanseatic city. This is where you find all the historical buildings that Gdanska has been famous for, like St Mary's Cathedral and the Town Hall (still the two tallest buildings in the city), St Catherine's Church, the Golden Gate, the Prison Tower, the Green Gate, Zuraw, Artus Court, Neptune's Fountain and many other attractions. Large parts of the Main Town was destroyed during World War II, but has been rebuilt in its original style. Main Town is not to be confused by the Old Town, where the old buildings haven't been rebuilt and is therefore newer and less interesting then Main Town (that is often confused to be the Old Town). You can still today see things written in German on buildings from the time as the freetown Danzig, 1920-39. The main street is called Dluga, and is together with Dlugie Pobrzeze, the riverwalk at River Motlawa the main streets where you find the most important buildings. We visited the Main Town several times at day and dark, tried some really good restaurants, visited the toy museum and climbed St Mary's Church. Our apartment hotel was also in the Old Town, right next to the Old Town, Dluga.

DLUGA:



Dluga (Long Lane) is the main street in the historial heart and center of Gdansk. This is where you find attractions like the Town Hall, Golen Gate, Green Gate, the Prison/Torture Tower and nearby St Mary's Cathedral, as well as many good restaurants with open-air restaurants, and stores - souvenir shops.







Dom Uphagena (Uphagen House). Uphagen House was founded in the 1770s by Jana Uphagena, who forbid changes in the interior. During WWII the interior was evacuated and placed back in the reconstructed building in 1993-98.
It is one of few merchant houses in Europe that are open to public. We wanted to see the interior, but noone open when we ringed the bell despite it was during opening hours!


Golden Gate (Zlota Brama), at the West end of Dluga. Towering above the Golden Gate (Langgasser Tor in German) is the Prison Tower.




Another sculpture at the top of Golden Gate (Zlota Brama), symobolizing the city's qualitys; peace, freedom, wealth and fame.

[Nightsky]

DLUGI TARG (Long Market, part of Dluga):

Dlugi Targ (Long Market) is the Eastern part of Dluga street, that is bordering the gate to River Motlawa. It is market square, rectangular in shape and is situated between the Green Gate and the Town Hall.


Dlugi Targ, Long Market, looking westwards at this narrow square filled with colourful historical buildings, such as Artus Court, the Green Gate, the Neptune fountain and the Town Hall.The tall clock tower building to the far right is the Town Hall.


Long Market (Dlugi targ) with a closer look of the Town Hall, that (together with St Mary's Church) is the tallest building of Gdansk. It has hosted city authorities as well as many Polish kings. The pink building to the left is Dom Schumana.


The spire of the Town Hall with the golden statue of King Zygmunt August


Main Town Hall (Ratusz Glównego Miasta), that (together with St Mary's Church) is the tallest building of Gdansk. It was rebuilt after the destruction of WWII. The interior is decorated with beautiful paintings, carvings and furniture.

Entrance to the Town Hall


Zielona Brama, The Green Gate. This renaissance gate, inspired by Antwerp's Town Hall, is a gate between the too main pedestrian walks of Gdansk; Dlugi Targ/Dluga and the riverwalk at Motlawa. On the other side of the gate is the Zielony Bridge. The Green Gate was constructed 1564-68 and designed by Reiner van Amsterdam. Today it houses the Gdansk office of former president Lech Walesa, as well as the National Museum and a conference/exhibition center.


Traditional man walking towards the Green Gate, that is the beginning of the so called Royal Route.


Hard Rock Café, Long Market (Dlugi targ)


Merchants houses at Dlugi targ: Artus Court (under renovation), Bench House, Golden House (Złota Kamienica)


Artus Court (Dwór Artusa, formerly Junkershof), a beautiful white building constructed 1348-50, is situated in front of the Neptune Fountain at Dlugi targ. It is the most famous one of the mansions at the Long market (Dlugi targ). Artus Court housed social meetings for merchants and social dignities, and is still today an important meeting place. The name was taken from the medieval legend King Arthur. Several Artus Courts has existed in Hanseatic cities. It was designed by the mannerist architect Abraham van den Blocke. After a fire in 1841, it was given a more gothic form. Unfortunately it was covered with scaffolds.

It is one of few buildings that represents Poland at the theme park Mini Europe in Brussels, that we visited some months earlier. The interior is impressive, but was unfortunately not open during our visit.


Neptune's Fountain, Town Hall and Artus Court. Neptune's Fountain (Studnia Neptuna) is a bronze fountain with a sculpture of Neptuen and has became one of Gdansk's most recognizable symbols, reminding of the relationship to the sea.



http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk_City.html

[Nightsky]

More will come soon! The website is still under construction but will be finished the coming week:

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk.html

[Coldrsx]

Absolutely stunning

[SignalHillHiker]

Really beautiful.

I'm curious, in that first photo is the steam from street meat? Some kind of fog? Camera lens smudge? It's quite a romantic effect.

[Nightsky]

Thanks!

Originally Posted by SignalHillHiker

Really beautiful.

I'm curious, in that first photo is the steam from street meat? Some kind of fog? Camera lens smudge? It's quite a romantic effect.

I think it was a cloud. No camera lens smudge though...Could be steam also since since it is partly visible in front of the buildings. Strange...

[SignalHillHiker]

Well, then obviously it's just visible love. Great shots!

[Quabbin]

The reconstruction after WWII devastation is so complete and painstaking that you would never guess it's no older than Disneyland. The Poles may have been more thorough in rebuilding their cities than the Germans were. Nuremberg, for instance, was rebuilt along traditional lines but without the handicraft of old buildings, whereas, from your photos, everything here looks hundreds of years old.

[Nightsky]

^^Yes its true! But as soon as you leave the old town, everything is very new, mostly built in a dull socialist style. But the old town is like you said rebuilt in a way that makes it looks very old, and is one of the most beautiful in Europe!

[Nightsky]

TARG WEGLOWY (Coal Market):

Targ Weglowy (Coal Market, or Kohlenmarkt) is a large square between the Golden Gate that borders the Old Town, and the Central Station. It is partly a wateland with parking lots and sculptures, but you will also find some of the most important historical buildings here. The square is also a place for activities, like concerts, and sun chairs to relax.


Prison Tower and Torture Chamber, originally built as part of the city fortifications in the 14th century, and rebuilt by Antoni van Obberghen 1593-1604. The tower was used as a prison while the lower buiding was a courthouse and torture chamber. Executions were held in the smaller building until the middle of the 19th century. Today it houses the Amber Museum and the Torture Museum.






Brama Wyzynna (Upland Gate or Hohes Tor) stands at Weglowy Market, was the original starting point for the Royal way and is very close to the Golden Gate. It was here the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city. Originally, there was a moat around it, that is why it is called upland gate. In recent years, it has been renovated and converted into a tourist office (note the modern glass door in the middle).






The Millennium Tree (Drzewo millenium) is a metal tree that was made to mark the 1000th anniversary of Gdansk in 1997.



ULICA PIWNA:


Piwna is a parallel street to Dluga. This is where you find St Mary's Basilica.










Wielka Zbrojownia (Grosses Zeughaus), Great Armoury Building. A building designed in mannerist style by Antoni van Obbergen, situated in the important intersection Piwna/Zbrojownia. It was built as an armoury (arsenal) in 1602-05 because of the growing threat from Sweden.

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk_City.html

[Nightsky]

ST MARY'S CHURCH (BAZYLIKA MARIACKA W GDANSKU):

Bazylika Mariacka (the Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary), or just St Mary's Cathedral, is together with the Town Hall the tallest and most famous building of Gdansk. It is a Roman Catholic church and was completed in 1502. Mariacka is situated on ulica Piwna, a parallel street to Dluga, just 4 blocks from the river, and boders Swietego Ducha and Mariacka streets. It is the largest gothic brick church in the world. It is 68m wide, 105m long and 80m to the top of the tower. The church was heavily damaged in 1945, when the Red Army stormed the city of Danzig (today Gdansk). For a small entrance fee you can enter the impressive interior of the church, and climb to the top through claustrophobic narrow stairs and larger concrete stairs inside the clock tower.


St Mary's Cathedral (Bazylika Mariacka), the world's largest brick church. This 80m tall main tower is here seen from Piwna.




This half-timbered house looks very small at the foot of the basilica!






Outdoor observation deck at St Mary's Basilica


The nave of St Mary's Church (Bazylika Mariacka) towards the altar. 300 tombstones and 31 chapels can be found inside the cathedral.


Roof of St Mary's Church (Bazylika Mariacka). The interior holds up to 25 000 people, and in 1981-83 people sought refuge during the Solidarity movement.






Astronomical clock from 1464, St Mary's Basilica


Adam and Eve ring the bell every hour at the astronomical clock, St Mary's Basilica








Stairway to the viewing platform on the top, St Mary's Basilica

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk_City.html

[Nightsky]

VIEWS FROM THE VIEWING PLATFORM AT THE TOP OF ST MARY'S CHURCH TOWER:


View towards the Old Town and River Motlawa with part of the cathedral. St Mary's Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka), built in gothic style, is the world's largest brick church and the tallest building in Gdansk (82m to the spire).


View to the North towards the Old Town with Jarek Tower, Great Mill, Madison Mall and St Catherine's Church in the front. Behind them are Gdansk's tallest highrise buildings: Zieleniak (72m), Prorem Tower (80m, tallest) and Mercure Hotel Hevelius (70m). In the background is the cranes of the famous Stocznia Maritim Shipyard, where Lech Walesa started the Solidarity movement.


View to the South with the Main Town Hall in the middle. This building is equally tall as St Mary's and also features a viewing platform. In the distance you can see the forests and fields that surround the city.


Town Hall tower's viewing platform.


St John's Church (Kosciól sw. Jana) in the Old Town.








St Catherine's Church, Prorem Tower, St Bartholomew's Church, and Mercure Hevelius Hotel.


Third Millennium John Paul II Bridge, built in 2001, has a 100m tall pylon. It spans over River Vistula's branch Martwa Wisla.


Main Station (Gdansk Glowny) in Stare Miasto and the hilly forest that borders the city center (Srodomiescie). Trains go to the bordering cities Gdynia and Sopot and many other cities from this station, that opened in 1900.

Lech Walesa Airport


Stocznia Maritim Shipyard (formerly Lenin Shipyard), where Lech Walesa started the Solidarity movement.

Comments and more skyline photos can be found at my website:

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Gdansk_skyline.html

[SignalHillHiker]

Gorgeous.

[Ex-Ithacan]

Very enjoyable thread Nightsky. Thanks.

I'm wondering what the area in the center of this pic might be? Looks like it couold be some kind of athletic field, or maybe just a green space.

[AJW]

Very nice. An Hungarian airliner just started offering low cost flights from Groningen to Gdansk, so this may be a great place to spend a couple of days.

[Surrealplaces]

Nice photo tour!

[Nightsky]

Thanks!

AJW: If you mean Wizzair you have to keep in mind it is one of the worst airlines in Europe (about the same as Ryanair) as you often end up paying twice the price that you thought you should pay (for bagages and other hidden charges) and you have to pay a fine as "punishment" if you are not able to confirm the booking on internet before you go home.

Ex-Ithlacan:



It's the PGE Arena, I didn't see it up close unfortunately since its too far in the outskirts, but it seems to have a really nice design!

[thomas_zul]

Thanks for these shots from Gdansk

I live in a nearby city of Gdynia and I'm glad that you visited it as well as Sopot. These three cities known as 'Threecity' metro area are very different and quite unique. Sadly, people often visit only one of them insted of all three. It only takes about 30mins to travel through them with SKM (Szybka Kolej Miejska - Fast City Trains). And there are lots of buses communications, and some unique transportation systems - trams in Gdansk and trolleys in Gdynia. We also have historical trolley line in Gdynia but they run only on saturdays and holidays.

As I expect I do wait for another thread for Sopot and Gdynia. I did myself two threads about my city before, so if you're interested... Maybe the third is coming.

Thanks once again!

[Nightsky]

Originally Posted by thomas_zul

Thanks for these shots from Gdansk

I live in a nearby city of Gdynia and I'm glad that you visited it as well as Sopot. These three cities known as 'Threecity' metro area are very different and quite unique. Sadly, people often visit only one of them insted of all three. It only takes about 30mins to travel through them with SKM (Szybka Kolej Miejska - Fast City Trains). And there are lots of buses communications, and some unique transportation systems - trams in Gdansk and trolleys in Gdynia. We also have historical trolley line in Gdynia but they run only on saturdays and holidays.

As I expect I do wait for another thread for Sopot and Gdynia. I did myself two threads about my city before, so if you're interested... Maybe the third is coming.

Thanks once again!

Yes I will post Gdynia and Sopot threas soon! You're right, more tourists should visit all 3 even if most attractions are in Gdansk. It's fascinating how different these 3 cities are despite being so close to each other.