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  #1  
Old Posted Aug 6, 2016, 11:46 PM
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Paradox21 Paradox21 is offline
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Several hours in São Paulo, BRAZIL

Unfortunately, I only had several hours of daylight to spend in São Paulo, so my "tour" was quite limited. I flew here directly from Rio earlier in the day. See my Rio de Janeiro photo thread here However, I experienced enough of the city to say that with confidence that Sampa (as some locals refer to it) is a remarkable cosmopolitan metropolis that defies comparison to any single city I’ve been to. The closest analogue I can come up with would be an amalgamation of several cities…and to be honest, I still haven’t quite figured out exactly what those cities would be.

Despite the loads of research (and reconnaissance on Google Maps) I did in the weeks leading up to the trip, I was honestly surprised the level of energy, the amount of street art, and foot traffic throughout the city in the various neighborhoods that I visited. While São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro are only barely 4 and a half hours driving distance apart (not counting inner-city traffic), the two cities seem almost a world away in terms of the way they both look and feel.

I’ll shut up and let the pictures speak for themselves.

I’ll be happy to elaborate with some additional context to the photos in the comments if anyone has any questions about them. I'll probably post a few more photos that didn't make the "first cut" at some point later this week...

(All photos in this post were taken on Monday, June 20, 2016)



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  #2  
Old Posted Aug 7, 2016, 1:34 AM
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Heck of a tour. There seems to be an overload on the tags in many pics. I did have a couple of questions. Is the freeway in the last few pics for pedestrians and bikes only? What's the story with the building in this pic?:



Thanks for sharing your visit.
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Old Posted Aug 7, 2016, 4:01 AM
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Thanks, Ex-Ithacan!

I’m not sure what the building is called, I know that it has a large electronic store at ground level. According to the Googles, it houses State Government offices for the Department of Energy & Mining…Across the street is the beautiful beaux arts Theatro Municipal (which i didn't really show in my thread, tho…I know, I suck).

As for the tagging, yes, I agree that it is jarring to see so much of it in so many places (both in the inner city as well as the suburbs)...

There is a particular style of calligraphic tagging that is mostly unique to the São Paulo metropolitan area, known as “pichação” or “pixação,” which is visually characterized by sharp edged, pointed letters. It started to gain momentum in the mid-1980s. The style of graffiti has become synonymous with a way to protest social and economic inequity and is often meant to be bold, ugly and abrasive, as a way of amplifying their message.

…The highway seen in last three photos (as well as photos 24 and 26, if you know where to look), is a 2 mile long elevated highway commonly referred to by locals the “The Minhocão,” which means “Big Earthworm” in Portuguese. It is open to traffic every day except Sundays & holidays. All other days, vehicle traffic is restricted to the hours of 6:30am to 9:30pm. When there is no traffic, it becomes a popular spot of bikers, runners, dog walkers, and on Sundays –vendors.

Last edited by Paradox21; Aug 7, 2016 at 4:29 AM.
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Old Posted Aug 7, 2016, 1:34 PM
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Cool pics, thanks for sharing!
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Old Posted Aug 7, 2016, 3:48 PM
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Great pics! I might be wrong, but every time I see SP I think it is like the Berlin of South America.
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Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 2:32 AM
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20 or 30 years ago seeing all this would rev up my engine and I would have dreams to visit such a place. Now it's like sensory overload I don't know if I can take it. With all that said I still enjoyed your awesome photos, thanks for sharing
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Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 3:52 AM
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Looks like an anarchic Tokyo.
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Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 6:00 PM
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Awesome pics!
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  #9  
Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 6:03 PM
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Great set of photos! I actually oddly found the tagging on that building Ex-Ithacan posted to be aesthetically pleasing against the brutalist facade. Gives a grungy artsy vibe.

Is it true that Sao Paolo is more developed and has less of the social issues that Rio has? I understand there are still some favelas, but it seems to be a much more prosperous place than cities further north.
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Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 8:58 PM
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It's like Monster Berlin.
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Old Posted Aug 8, 2016, 10:45 PM
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Like the offspring of Tokyo, Lisbon, and 1970s New York.
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Old Posted Aug 9, 2016, 12:40 AM
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Fascinating city visually but not what one would expect.
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Old Posted Aug 9, 2016, 1:08 AM
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Thanks for the explanations Paradox21.
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Old Posted Aug 9, 2016, 10:05 AM
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Overwhelming, wow.
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  #15  
Old Posted Aug 10, 2016, 6:40 PM
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Appreciate the response, y'all!

ChrisLA: Thanks for the kind words, and I certainly understand what you mean. When I look back on the photos, they don't adequately express the CONSTANT amount of chaos and visual stimulation I experienced in my few short hours there. It truly felt like 15 interesting things were going on at once at almost every block I happened to be on (and not just Centro or Avenida Paulista, either). I almost felt like I was coming down from some amphetamine trip after settling back into the hotel room that night...

ue: The crime rate is statistically lower in São Paulo than in Rio, but depending on who you talk to (and where you go) you might come away thinking that you're more likely to be a victim of crime in São Paulo (I talked to two people in São Paulo who told me that). Generally speaking street crime is unacceptably rampant in both places, but homicide totals are in line with New York and Los Angeles in the 1980s (and homicide rates are currently considerably below rates for American cities like Baltimore, Detroit, St. Louis, and New Orleans).

They both have massive problems with regards to income inequality. São Paulo actually has more favelas than Rio de Janeiro, however they are almost exclusively located in the outskirts of the city, whereas in Rio, they are almost always in walking distance, often visible on the hilltops, no matter where you are (even in the wealthiest neighborhood in all of Brazil - Leblon). I think the omnipresence of the favelas and the dramatic contrast they provide to the rest of the city makes the social problems of Rio appear more acute than other locations that are suffering from similar issues.

As far as infrastructure/development goes, it's hard to say there is a clear winner from what I saw. While São Paulo clearly has a much more comprehensive transit system than Rio, it is woefully inadequate for a sprawled city of 20 million people. Rio has made some substantial improvements this summer with the inauguration of it's VLT light rail line and Metro Line 4 extension, while Sampa's roads generally seem to be in better quality with less potholes.

São Paulo (and Rio) are currently in *far* better shape economically and socially at the moment than the Northeastern region of Brazil. Rampant inequality and gang warfare has led to a dramatic increase of crime over the past 15 years (from violent assaults to child prostitution), while crime rates in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro have plummeted over the same period.

As a single point of reference, Rio de Janeiro city proper (pop. 6.4 mil) had over 1,600 homicides in the city proper in 2015 (police were responsible for 1 in 5 homicides, BTW)...while Fortaleza in NE Brazil (with a population of 3.9 mil) had over 2,400 homicides. Unfortunately, the crime situation in the Northeast is appears to getting worse as of late, not better. A deep economic recession coupled with political instability does not seem to bode well for short-term social improvements in Brazil overall.
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Old Posted Aug 11, 2016, 3:22 PM
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Very nice pictures about Sao Paulo! The aerial views of the city and the night pictures are specially remarkable.

I agree, Sao Paulo looks really chaotic and old, but I am sure it is worth visiting it.

Thanks for sharing and greetings from Madrid, Spain.
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Old Posted Aug 12, 2016, 2:40 PM
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Excellent companion to the Rio set!! Sao Paulo is a city that we don't see a huge amount of and has always interested me. Too bad you weren't there longer.

Your descriptions of crime / perceptions of crime and inequality sound similar to what I experienced in South Africa with respect to Cape Town / Johannesburg. Although SA seems to have less street crime and a higher murder rate.
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