I think I should have made the question below a threshold of a certain size. I wasn't really fair to Athens, and it's a massive city where you can avoid tourists just like Paris, London, Barcelona, etc.
What's probably a better question is which of those cities which are too small and too touristy to get the "live like a local" experience, but are still worth going to because they offer something unique. Salzburg seems like a good example of one where you both can't avoid the tourist scourge, and there might not be enough meat to make withstanding the horde worth it.
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Discontented suburbanite since 1994
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