[esquire]

I made my first visit to Montreal in 1992, returned in 1995 and came back frequently for the next 6 years. There was a certain gritty, almost unstable element to the city that I didn't see in, say, Toronto or Vancouver in those days. It also seemed down at the heels, as though Montreal was undergoing some sort of massive civic hangover after the sociocultural thrill ride of the 1960s and 70s.

I'm not sure what's changed, but Montreal doesn't give off that vibe anymore. It looks a lot more polished and prosperous these days.